Sunday, April 7, 2013

Poison Ivy for the Rose

The amazing Drea Rose Deville requested a custom order from Missing James to feature in the first issue of JYNX Alt Lifestyle Magazine coming out this North American summer. A while back she died her gorgeous locks blood red and was inspired to do a poison ivy shoot, so requested a Missing James take on the Batman Vixen. The result - an underbust long line corset dress with matching pasties in an emerald green Chinese brocade with satin panels, velvet boning channels and sequin vine detailing.

The Chinese brocade was bought from a vintage fabric seller off Etsy to create a one of a kind piece. Carefully, I cut out all the panels of the corset - alternating in brocade and plain emerald satin.

Two layers of thick calico in each panel make the corset really strong and a final satin lining keeps it smooth on the skin. The panels are all cut and ready to be assembled.

The first step of assembly is to sew in the busk. Because the corset is a long line corset dress, I used the longest busk available - only 16 inches! There are an extra 4 inches of hem along the bottom under the busk, but this allows the wearer to sit down. For instructions on how to insert a split busk, review an old post from 2010 - .

A zipper foot makes it easier to sew in the busk.

To make it easier to sew so many layers together, I basted each of the panels so they wouldn't slip and slide while I was making the boning channels.

One all of the panels are sewn together, the boning channels can then be stitched into place.

The corset then begins to take shape:

To be able to tie up the back of the corset, eyelets need to be punched along the back 2 panels for the lacing. I was lucky to have just received my new eyelet punch, so this step of the process was much easier than it has been in the past. 

The corset can now be placed onto a model for a fitting and only a few minor changes had to be made.

After hours of hand finishing the inside seams and sewing on the velvet boning channels, the final sequin details and velvet bias binding could be added to finish the corset.

The finished product!

To top off this gorgeous underbust and make it slightly more modest - a pair of handmade custom pasties to match!

Voila! A burlesque take on the vixen, Poison Ivy.